茶席間此起彼落的談笑聲,讓整間屋子散發著熱鬧的氣氛,隨著茶水溫度的升高,茶壺激昂地著呼著松聲,滾水奮力地翻著魚眼,熱情更顯激昂。七個青春洋溢的女生,難掩首次同窗單獨一起出遊的喜悅,畢竟剛告別中學課業的苦悶與難熬的青澀,且個個金榜題名,即將開啟人生的另一頁。她們這一群是故事館訪客中最年輕的,也是最有活力的一群。這次的旅遊對她們而言,可說吹起自由、獨立生活號角的第一響,十八歲是一個人生重要的里程碑,它象徵著美好的青春;它賦予許多的自由,但也表示許多責任的加諸。

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一群青春洋溢的女生,在故事館 日月星辰房的樓梯上,與張媽媽合影。

    夜晚靜謐冷清的十崁街上,故事館的獨舞,顯得特立但不突兀;常有年逾八十耆老漫步的街道上,十八歲青春的出現並不違和,畢竟是曾經的擁有。十八開啟起人生的第一個樂章,八十順應著人生最後一曲的旋律。十八歲與八十歲的樂章悄悄地的共譜。故事館裡,滿溢著十八歲的青春,如漣漪般一圈一圈的,讓漠然的街道染上了淡淡的活力。

    十八歲女生們的故事ing,(待續…)

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鹿谷客棧藏深處  台北商廈顯繁華

九龍師表入鹿谷  十人全才耀台灣

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    前兩句是香港朋友留在會議室白板的對句,禮尚往來的我也回應他們,寫下了對句。那陳導我本以為是陳姓導師的意思,後來問了才明白是,他們這群的陳姓領導。

 

    一個連假首日的午后,一陣陣滾輪聲喀喀喀….此起彼落喀喀音浪潮撲身而來,越來越強烈的音浪,直到一群浩蕩陣勢的一群人出現在故事館門前才停歇。眼前的他們,男男女女都顯得精力充沛且神采奕奕,操持著陌生的聲音,每個人的行李一件比一件碩大,殊不知他們如何帶這麼多東西搭公車的。

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    他們是一群香港的中學老師,裡面的人有教英文、地理、體育等主要來台灣的學校的觀摩之行,在洽公之餘順道來一趟鹿谷竹山之旅。這才理解為甚麼他們帶了這麼多的行李,他們在故事館待了三天,他們三天的行程可說是滿、滿、滿,在曾住宿的客人當中是玩得最透徹的一團了,且是完全搭公車,在略顯不方便的公車網絡,誠屬難能可貴!

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    他們的行程有忘憂森林、溪頭(含妖怪村)、凍頂山看日出(從故事館步行去)、財仔溪看螢火蟲兩次(從故事館步行去)、天梯等從他們一群每天整裝運動登山服,就可以感受到他們整身的活力。後來才得知原本他們是準備去登玉山的,但因為交通因素而作罷!

    一群精力充沛的老師,為鹿谷注入了一股活力;一群來自遠方的夫子,也為鹿谷帶來絲毫異國的風情。

 

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將滾水注入茶壺中,在日常生活所接觸到的方式都是如此,在偶然一次來訪的外國友人問到:「為甚麼在台灣看到泡茶的水都是用滾水?在國外好像不一定用滾水。」一時突然愣住,心想沒錯啊!我們確實都用滾水在泡茶。除了紅茶會將滾水放置一旁降溫再注入茶壺外,一般泡茶都用滾水。心中有此疑問,特別整理一下有關泡茶溫度的文獻。

茶與書法的共舞2 鹿谷故事館背包客棧 lugustoryhouse backpacker hostel

     泡茶若以不同溫度區分基本上可以將其區分成以下三個範圍:

  • 水溫九十度以上沖泡

部分發酵茶業及全發酵茶葉適合較高溫沖泡,部分發酵茶(青茶類),如:凍頂烏龍茶、鐵觀音、岩茶等。還有全發酵茶,如:紅茶,黑茶類:如以渥堆後發酵製成的普洱茶,都須以高溫沖泡。

 

  • 水溫八十度到九十度沖泡

 

白毫烏龍;以及白茶類,如白毫銀針、壽眉等。適合八十度到九十度的溫度沖泡,白毫烏龍特別適合水溫85℃,白毫銀針適合80℃沖泡。原本應以高溫沖泡的茶葉,如因茶菁篇嫩採,或是因後製茶乾較為細碎時,應降低水溫以中溫沖泡。

 

  • 水溫七十到八十度沖泡

 

綠茶及黃茶類適合相對低溫沖泡,如龍井、碧蘿春、煎茶、玉露、香片等;以及黃茶類,如君山銀針。而原本應以八十度到九十度沖泡的茶葉,如果因採製偏嫩或是茶葉變得較為細碎時,也應將水溫降低。

泡茶的水溫應依據茶業的種類不同做調整,且不應只拘泥在種類的不同上,也應依據茶乾成品的狀況作調整,較成熟葉則提升溫度;反之若是嫩採葉或是細碎則降低溫度。

 氣質出眾 風情萬千的茶席 3 鹿谷故事館背包客棧 lugustoryhouse backpacker hostel

    人體的感官很難精確的測出水溫,但在茶席之間,茶水裡放了支溫度計實屬煞風景,但水溫的正確與否,影響茶湯的滋味甚大。但要以感官判斷溫度誠屬不易,或可依以下幾種茶水狀況判斷,古人判斷茶水有所謂的「松聲、魚眼、蟹眼」等也有所謂的一滾、二滾、三滾水等但現代人難以古人的方法為此判斷,稍假以下幾種方法判斷,水溫九十度以上的現象:煮水壺壺中水翻騰且大量蒸氣往上沖。水溫80~90:煮水壺中有蒸汽往上沖,但少部分兩側飄散。水溫80℃以下:煮水壺中的雖然有蒸汽,但都向兩側飄散。不用溫度計,用感官判斷或許多一絲毫飲茶的茶趣與禪意吧!

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在寶興宮的龍邊門上有一口巨大的銅鐘,虎邊門上有一座碩大的鼓。古時候的鐘有分四種:一、樂鐘:如同現代的樂器一樣,用來休閒娛樂的演奏。二、朝鐘:是古代政府機關用來集合群眾,宣示政令用。三、法鐘:佛道兩教所用的鐘。四:報時鐘:顧名思義,這鐘是用來報時用的。

There are a huge copper bell on the top of the dragon side entrance and a giant bell on the top of tiger side entrance. In the ancient, there are four types of bell, first, musical bell: it’s just like modern instrument for entertainment;second, morning bell: the authority uses it to gather people to clarify something in the public;third, religion bell: it’s used in the Buddhism temple and Taoism temples;fourth, time clock, it’s just like the clocks which we use now.

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    寶興宮的銅鐘即是佛教道教所謂的法鍾,它的出處典故;例如,南朝庚信《陪駕幸終南山和宇文月史》所說:「戍樓鳴夕鼓,山寺響晨鐘。」;唐張繼《楓橋夜泊》:「姑蘇城外寒山寺,夜半鐘聲到客船。」

    這鼓跟鐘並非每天都敲,只有在初一、十五及有其它廟宇的神尊駕臨的時候才敲。在初一、十五按暮鼓、晨鐘的順序,及早晨時先敲鐘後敲鼓,一鐘聲後敲兩鼓鐘,如此循環一百零八響。黃昏便是鼓先敲,兩鼓聲後配上一鐘聲,也是依序敲一百零八響。這一百零八的數字有兩種涵義,一百零八乃是九的倍數,九乃是陽數之極,一百零八是禮制中最大的,此代表著無比的威儀及尊崇;另有一個說法,這指的是天上一百零八顆星宿,即所謂「三十六天罡、十七十二地煞。」。

    The bell of BaoXing Temple is religion bell of Buddhism and Taoism. However, people don’t strike the bell and drum. Only on the first and fifteenth of every month of lunar calendar and other deities of temples visit. On the first or fifteenth of every month in the lunar calendar, the sequence of striking bell and drum is to strike the bell once at first then the drum twice in the morning. The times of striking is 108. In the evening, people strike the drum twice at the beginning then the bell once. The times of striking is also 108. However when other deities visit the temple, the bell and the drum will strike at the same time many until the visitors enter the gate of the temple. The number of 108 is the biggest one of the system of rites which represents awe-inspiration and respect. In the other way, the108 means the stars in the sky which means 36 sky stars and 72 land star.

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    因應時代的進步,廟裡的暮鼓晨鐘用電子儀器設定,用機器敲打,但似乎多了點科技的冰冷味,但卻少了點人文的溫度。或許有天來場依古法的「暮鼓晨鐘」,讓一波波的鐘鼓音浪連結起今天與古時的時空。

    Accompany with the progress of modern technology, Taiwanese apply to the electronic equipment to strike the bells and drums by the machines. However, it seems contains more cold technology than the warm humanity. Maybe someday we could hold a traditional 「Dawn Drum and Morning Bell」, making a connection between the nowadays and ancient. 

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對大部分的台灣人而言,廟宇是生活不可或缺的一塊拼圖,有傳統宗教信仰的人一個月多少去廟宇幾次,特別是考季到來時,可以看見神明桌前密密麻麻的准考證,廟宇對人們的影響可見一斑。但或許是習以為常亦或是沒人去說,從小到大常去的廟,對於祂裡面的典故所知甚少,廟裡面的題材,豐富的裝飾,可說是上千年生活文化的累積。

    For most Taiwanese, the temples are an important part of life. People who have religion belief will worship in the temples several times a month. Especially, when the seasons of examination come,the students will put their Admit Cards of Entrance Examination on the altar table. Therefore, there is huge influence for people’s life. However, maybe people are used to going to the temples and  careless about their allusions. The features of temples and the marvelous decorations have been accumulated to be our culture of our life since thousand years ago.

 

    廣興村寶興宮的電音三太子是當地人所耳熟能詳的陣頭表演團隊,但相較於電音三太子,對於寶興宮其它的部分相對為陌生許多,廟是我們生活的一部分,從小到大也去了寶興宮無數次,但對廟的裡裡外外的意涵顯得所知淺薄,相形於外國朋友屢屢對我們廟宇的裝飾讚嘆不已!自己對於這些周遭的文物顯得習以為常了甚或不經意的忽視了!

  The Electric-Techno Neon Gods dancing group of BaoXing Temple of GuangXing village is popular for the local. But speak of BaoXing Temple,people are not familiar with it. Temples is one part of our life. However, we have been the temple several times since childhood but we don’t know the meaning of our temple. Furthermore, foreigners are much more interested in our culture of temple than us. Maybe we are used to owning it then we neglect it.  

   

    每次到寶興宮會由龍邊的門進入,廟有三個門,以廟的座落方向向外,所謂左青龍、右白虎,及左邊的龍門及右邊的虎門,然而中間的門是供神明通行,一般民眾通行為入廟方向右進左出。這三個出入口中,每一個入口都有兩片木門組成,每片木門上都有手工繪製的門神。

    寶興宮的龍邊門及虎邊門都是天官,民間習俗認為天官為「福神」,常與祿、壽二仙並列,皆與升官發財多子多壽有關。文官門神頭戴官帽,穿朝服雲登靴,龍邊門神頭髮一黑一白;虎邊門神五綹黑髥。

    可以見到龍邊門左邊門神,一手托盤,盤上置冠,一手執如意;右邊門神一手托盤,盤上置鹿,一手執如意。龍邊門神所持的「冠」與「鹿」,即取其諧音,「加官進祿」,其意思便是升官發財,而手中的「如玉」便是取其諧音「如意」的意思。

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    虎邊門左邊的門神,一手托盤,盤上置牡丹花,一手執如意;右邊門神,一手托盤,盤上置爵器,一手執如意。虎邊門神所持的「牡丹」象徵富貴,「爵器」象徵升官,結合兩者即「富貴晉爵」,其意思也就是升官顯貴,而手中的「如玉」也是取諧音「如意」的意思。

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     中門門神,為民間所謂武門神左邊門(龍邊門)門神 為秦叔寶,面白鳳眼作拂鬚狀,面貌看起來不怒而威,頭戴著鳳盔,腳穿著雲登戰鬥靴,手持金鐧,身上掛著弓。身後有飄帶及靠旗四支。虎邊門門神為尉遲恭,面黑濃眉怒目圓睛,一手托鬚,頭戴著鳳盔,腳穿著雲登戰鬥靴,手持金鞭,身上掛著。身後有飄帶及靠旗四支。

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    站在廟裡,由不同角度望著秦叔寶或尉遲恭,會發現竟然是零死角的威嚴眼神壟罩著自己,除了不禁讚嘆畫師的功力,更震攝於這難解的神威。

    

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星期六近入夜時分,由天香茶行的張老闆領著一個身形高大的騎士駕著摩托車前來故事館,該騎士一脫安全帽才發現是一位鼻子高挺、一臉鬍子且繫著馬尾的外國人。

On Saturday evening, the boss of Tian-shiang tea shop led a tall man to the hostel by motorcycle. After the man took off the helmet, I found he was a foreigner with high-bridged nose, black beard and wore his hair in a ponytail.  

 

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    這外國人中英文交雜著與我們對話,中文雖稱不上流利,但基本對話還不錯!因為很少接觸到外國人,且還略懂中文,母親難掩興奮地張大耳朵、不自覺瞠目結舌的直視著這位老外,「你叫甚麼名字?怎麼唸啊?」我叫「Gregory」,母親學著發他的名字「GRE….」,她不甚精準的發音,逗得在場的人笑得人仰馬翻,後來叫她土法煉鋼法發音「Gre(用台語發 瓜 的音) go(狗的音) ry(瑞的音)」那老外不禁笑容滿溢地說「媽媽妳好棒!」這個跨國的交流對母親來說,既難得又有趣,畢竟身居山上,外國人的身影少見。

This foreigner talked with us in Chinese and English. He spoke Chinese was not very fluent, but the basic conversation was still great. My mom stared at him in surprise and listened to every words he spoke attentively because she seldom met the foreigner, especially can spoke Chinese a little. Mom asked him“What’s your name?”

He respond that my name is Gregory. Mom tried to learn to speak his name, but her unprecise pronunciation amuse us a lot. Later, I taught her speak this word in transforming the sound into the similar sound in Chinese to help her pronounce it easily. When my mom spoke his name successfully, Gregory complimented her. He said “You are so great, mom.” with a big smile. This transnational exchange is rare and interesting for my mom because it is hard to see foreigners as residing in mountain. 

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    難得有遠道而來的朋友,母親秉著有朋遠方,不亦樂乎得精神,認真地款待,搬出了最近在研發的拿手菜,苦茶油拌麵線加上幾道當地的時蔬。爽口且開胃。Gregory 大讚母親的手藝。

 It is not very often that a friend comes here from faraway place. My mom hold the spirit that it is such a pleasure to have friends coming from afar to treat him well. She cooked her signature dish- vermicelli with camellia oil and seasonal vegetables. It was tasty, refreshing, and gave people a good appetite. Gregory gave Mom unstinted praise.

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    飽食飯後,以茶水繼續開啟更進一步的話匣子,茶過幾巡,異國的風情在茶香之間趨近交融,交談之間才得知他目前在中國福建從事貿易工作,難怪中文還不錯,他的貿易的標的物是茶葉,這也是他此次來台灣的主要目的。見此對台灣文化如此熱情的外國人,真得很令人動容!所以無不大力跟他推一下台灣的茶葉。且他也提及台灣茶的品質相較於中國茶,品質精純且穩定很多。

After the meal, we communicate with each other more while drinking tea. Exotic atmosphere close to blend during the fragrance of tea. During the conversation, I knew he engaged himself in trade in Fujian province, China. No wonder he could speak some Chinese. His object of trade is tea . That is also the reason why he is looking for tea in Taiwan. Every time I see foreigner ardently love our culture, I feel so touched. So I promoted our tea greatly to him. He also mentioned the quality of Taiwanese tea is more pure and steady than Chinese tea.

    外國人對台灣茶竟有這麼大的熱情,且相繼有德國人甚至俄羅斯人來鹿谷尋茶,在他們的眼中台灣茶必定有一定的品質,且在他們的國家有不小的市場,身處茶鄉何其幸運,更應更深入了解茶的箇中奧妙 ,進而與各國友人分享她的美好!

 It is out of my expectation that foreigners love our tea deeply. Foreigners come to Taiwan to look for tea one after another, even the German and Russian. I think Taiwanese tea must have excellent quality and gain high market share in their country. How lucky I can live in a county producing tea. I should have more understanding about tea and share this wonderful things with everyone.

 

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進來喝咖啡吧!我準備開始煮咖啡了!」老伯在房子的門口隔著街道向我喊著。他爽朗的笑聲及洪亮的嗓門是他蹤跡未現前的前哨。一進他的家門可以看到一座木製的吧檯,上面倒掛著幾瓶洋酒及酒杯,吧檯附近的架上放有不少裝著咖啡原豆密封透明的咖啡豆,上面一一標著手寫的產地與種類字樣。他一手磨著咖啡原豆,一邊說「不用客氣的,有人陪我聊聊,我就很開心!」老伯年輕時是做百貨買賣業的,以前為了批貨或賣貨,南征北討的去了不少地方,但現在反而喜歡宅在家,連串門子也少了!他說「平輩還在的朋友很少,到別人家坐又擔心自己年紀大,和年輕人話不投機。」所以大部分時間都自己一個人。

 

    一個人喝咖啡;一個人騎機車;一個人吃飯;一個人去菜園。直到假日孩子才回家裡陪自己閒話家常。他說到最近辦了台智慧型手機,孩子回來時有用一個可以傳東西的綠色東西,孩子回去了就不能用了,且自己的國語注音不靈光,所以也不會使用。拿了他手機一看,發現因沒有申辦網路,所以當然沒辦法使用,且跟他說這個綠色東西叫做LINE,有網路可以免費使用,順便向他解釋了網路的樣貌跟概況。他說自己喜歡用手機聽洪榮宏的歌曲,我分享了網路,告訴他如何使用YouTube 搜尋歌曲,他露著開心的微笑。也領著他使用LINE,丟了一個笑臉給讀大學的孫子。孫子回「你是誰?」用語音轉換文字功能回「我是阿公」「怎可能?阿公早忘記怎麼使用了吧!」這位欣喜的阿公最後莞爾的再回上一個笑臉。繼續聽著YouTube 上洪榮宏的歌曲。

    邊說著因為就讀國校(現今國小)時受的是日本教育,所以注音符號對他全然是天書的概念,且他畢業時碰巧就是台灣光復。這讓我想到台灣人對國族認同的問題。為何有人覺得自己是日本人?或是中國人?亦或是台灣人?或許由此可以看出一點端倪,一個從出生周遭氛圍就呈現整個日本文化及官方制度,在他長大稍懂事理時,很難說自己不是日本人吧!但或許是台灣不同世代隱約可以發覺的淡淡憂傷。但何嘗不是台灣人多元文化的滋養,或許尋常百姓只想安居樂業吧!畢竟想恣意的想成為哪一國人,這不是一般人能有的選項。

    好奇看著牆上翻拍約略泛黃的黑白照片,寫著民國四十七年所拍,是張結婚的大合照,新郎穿著西裝、皮鞋,顯得精神爽朗;新娘穿著西式婚紗,雖看不出顏色,但大概可以猜出是一套白色新娘服。新人坐在中間的位置,圍著他們的親戚朋友或站或坐,有老有幼,大家為了這個照相的場合,想必是精心打扮,但也發現旁邊身上穿戴整齊但打赤腳的小女生赤腳入鏡,在那物資匱乏的年代,不足為奇吧!照片中的背景是在兩棟房屋之間,房屋可見到以竹子為主建構的牆壁,整間都是木頭搭配竹子所構造的房屋,屋頂鋪著簡易的屋瓦。

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     這照片的主角便是老伯,他笑著說「照片中站在他左側的小男生最近兒子娶媳婦了。」看著照片的小男生,想著他說的話,好大的反差,但再確認一下照片底下所寫的拍照年分,民國四十七年,也就是西元一九五八年,仔細想想,連照片中襁褓中的嬰孩,也大上自己幾十歲,有種時空錯亂的感覺。

    一個年逾八旬的老翁;一個人住;一個人去自己的開心農場;一個人吃早餐、中餐、晚餐;一個人喝下午茶的咖啡,偶爾兩個人;一個人騎摩托車去買東西。台灣的鄉間,不斷重複的身影。

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台灣有俗諺所謂開門七件事柴、米、油、鹽、醬、醋、茶。」茶之於台灣人絲毫不陌生,但台灣的街頭似乎是咖啡店多於茶館,特別是在都會區,可說是到處林立。且喝茶這件事多被歸於中、老年齡的生活因子,而不普遍於大部分的青年世代。雖難說咖啡是一種外國的月亮比較圓的產物,因其也深植於台灣人的生活不少年了;但對於飲茶進而品茶這件事,可以說是「近廟欺神」般的被看待。或許圍繞著咖啡所蘊含的元素,似乎比喝茶這件事浪漫許多。咖啡滿溢著音樂、人文、異國的氛圍,若向女性朋友提一句,我們喫茶去吧!那充滿著疑惑的眼神,可說是難以承受之輕。但茶真得是那麼難以親近或是難登所謂人文或浪漫的大雅之堂嗎?亦或是只是營造的元素不同?

In Taiwan, there is a saying going like this, “seven necessities of the Chinese kitchen: fuel, rice, oil, salt, soy sauce, vinegar, and tea.” It seems that tea is not unfamiliar to the Taiwanese, but we always see the coffee shops on the street rather than the teahouses, especially in the metropolis. In addition, drinking tea is usually classified into the life of middle-aged and elderly people, not into the most part of young people. Although it may not accurately say coffee is the product of Taiwanese’s attitude that worshipping everything foreign, it has still existed in Taiwanese’s life for many years. In contrast to drinking and tasting tea can be regarded as an example of familiarity breeds contempt. Maybe it is because drinking coffee is more easily associated with many romantic things and elements than drinking tea. After all, we always can feel coffee brimming with music, humanities, and exotic atmosphere. If you ask your female friend to drink tea together, she may reply you with a doubtful look that make you uneasy. It is really not a good experience at all. However, is tea really difficult to get close to or not to appeal to refined taste? Or just because people create different elements for these?

 

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    一個平常的午後,見到門前放著一個外型鮮紅印有芝麻街英文玩偶劇中人物的行李箱,但不見這行李箱的主人。拿起手機拍著它並由line給他的主人,他回我一個冒汗的尷尬的圖案,一時沒會意過來,只因這鮮紅的箱子聯想著它的主人可能有的性格樣貌。入住check in 時,才知道他來自於地球遙遠的另一端,德國的漢堡。且他是因對茶葉的執著與熱愛,而到台灣上演一齣萬里尋茶記。

An ordinary afternoon, I saw a bright red luggage printing Sesame Street English character on in front of the hostel’s door, but I didn’t’ see its owner. So I took the picture of the luggage and text it to its owner, and then he replied me an embarrassed expression symbol, I didn’t understand the meaning of the symbol at that time. I just guess the owner’s personality from this bright red luggage. Until he checked in did I know he was from Hamburg, Germany, which is far away from Taiwan. He came to Taiwan from miles away is totally because of his deep love with tea leaves.

 

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    在台灣年輕的族群二十到三十世代中,對於茶葉有著濃濃興致的人,可說是微乎其微,由這位德國人身上散發著對台灣茶的熱血,更顯得令人驚訝!且特別是他那一口標準的中文,更令人好奇!後來交談得知,原來幾年前他曾參加德國政府的國際服務工作,來台一年,回德國後於大學主修中文系。難怪一口流利的中文,在全然歐洲臉孔中透著東方標準的語言,這搭配誠屬難得,但又不顯得突兀。

It was very little proportion of 20s to 30s people in Taiwan have interest in tea. Therefore, this German’s enthusiasm for tea makes me surprised. Also, I am curious about he speaks Chinese fluently and accurately. After the later chatting, I got the answer. It is because he participated in the international volunteering which is the Germany government hold, he had been to Taiwan once and stayed here for one year. After he finished this volunteering job, he went to Germany and majored in Chinese in university. No wonder he speaks Chinese fluently and accurately. Seldom can we know the foreigners speak Chinese great and it sees nothing strange with that. 

    這德國朋友-佑明,這次來台灣的主題旅遊是走訪茶山,來鹿谷便是想喝他數年前味覺記憶中的凍頂烏龍茶。難得遠自萬里外來訪的朋友,且如此熱愛台灣的文化,秉著所謂一期一會的精神,略盡地主之誼,領著他到不少茶行找尋他記憶中的茶滋味,也造訪了幾座茶園,特別是離杉林溪入口處不遠,一座地形十分陡峭的茶園,真的十足感受到,眼前每一杯的茶得來不易!由於歐洲不產竹,所以也領著他去小半天長源圳的孟宗竹林漫遊,也逛了竹山媽祖廟且享用了滋味絕妙的廟口肉圓。

The German friend, You-ming, plans to drop in tea mountains, so he came to Lugu to find Dong Ding Oolong tea that he had tasted many years ago. I uphold the spirit of yi-chi-yi-huei (This is a Japanese old saying: One life offers one chance to meet someone it means that you have to treat anyone you meet just like only one chance in all life.) to lead him to several tea shops, helping him find the taste in his memory. We also visit some tea gardens. Among these tea gardens, there is one around the entrance of Sun Moon Lake is the most steep that I really feel every cup of tea comes uneasily. Besides, I also take him to Jang-yuan tzuan hiking trail to watch Phyllostachys edulis(a kind of bamboo) because I think he have little chance to see this due to Europe is not the place to plant bamboo. Finally, we went to Ju-shan Ma-tzu temple and ate the delicious meat ball around there.

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 在數次茶席品茗交流中,提到一個日本對味道的定義: Umami,味覺除了酸、甜、苦、鹹外,在1908年由日本池田教授提出Umami,而在1985年的國際醫學會議上,被官方認可為第五種味道。Umami中文對應的文字可用鮮味,但似乎又難以全然那麼對味,它應說是一種胺基酸,以化學分析也可檢測出來,但用味覺來區別,倒是難以如酸、甜、苦、鹹般那樣鮮明,茶葉當然亦可用這Umami 去形容當中的滋味,但何謂一杯茶中的Umami,以感官體悟後而去闡述,確實難輕易品嘗出,更遑論以隻字片語去形容。
 
Among several tasting tea times and communication, I mentioned the definition of flavor from Japan once, which is called Umami. In 1908, Prof. Kikunae Ikeda made this flavor. Umami is one of the five basic tastes (together with sweetness, sourness, bitterness, and saltiness). In 1985, the term umami was recognized as the scientific term to be the fifth flavor at the first Umami International Symposium in Hawaii. It seems difficult to describe Umami in Chinese. Perhaps, we can only say umami is the taste of glutamates and nucleotides from chemistry. However, if we describe it from the sense of taste, umami cannot be explained clearly like sweetness, sourness, bitterness and saltiness. Of course, we can use umami to express our feeling while drinking tea. However, it really a kind of feeling beyond the words likewise. 

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  見到遠自他方的友人對自己文化如此的熱愛,且對我們根深的茶業文化如此追根究柢的探尋,身為一個土生土長的台灣人,感到驚喜但深感汗顏,連外國人那麼深愛我們的文化,我們更應珍惜深掘進而發揚分享自己土地的美好。
 
When I see the foreigner ardently love our culture and get to the bottom of our tea culture, I feel pleasantly surprised and shameful as a native Taiwanese. Even foreigners admire our culture deeply, we Taiwanese should perish our culture more and promote our wonderful culture to the whole world.
 
 
 
註: 一期一會: 這是日本特有的文化,表示人與人之間可能一輩子只有一次見面
 
   的機會,即每次的會面都是獨一無二的,因而每次見面都要盡其可能的用心款
 
   待對方。
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 於鹿谷故事館的斜對面住著一位老伯,經常不期而遇與他打招呼,每每被他硬朗且開懷的笑聲而吸引,在一天的偶遇,與其相約找一天登門拜訪,這約定過了數個月才得以實現。一進其家門,他一貫可掬的笑容,頓時讓屋裡溫暖了許多,他引領我到他那精緻木製的吧台,吧台的牆上放了數罐子女為他準備的咖啡原豆,用透明的咖啡罐裝著,他笑著說:「我們喝咖啡吧!」我驚喜地回說:「當然好啊!」這在家裡煮咖啡的情景,在鹿谷當地是頗少見的,畢竟是茶鄉,家家戶戶以泡茶為常。看他以專業俐落的手法,取出咖啡豆,將其緩緩放入磨豆機,且精準地將咖啡粉放入咖啡機的身手,可以感受其專業的煮咖啡技術。喝著八旬爺爺級長輩煮的咖啡,口中啜著苦苦的滋味,但心中滿溢著甜甜的味道。

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    談及他二十初就搬來這裡住,對於當時十崁街周遭的的商店及生活狀況,如數家珍般鉅細靡遺地訴說,老人家的眼神炯炯、神采奕奕,彷彿讓我身歷其境般。但回到現今,他也多少提及串門子的朋友少之又少,畢竟年紀將近九十,老朋友所剩幾稀。十崁這T字形路口周遭的老屋的屋齡幾乎超過六十,有將近三分之二是空屋,住在屋內的人大多是獨居老人,且年紀比屋子都還老,七八十歲者常見。這種情景或許以都市居民的角度看這樣的鄉下景況,或許會感到十分詫異,都市寸土寸金,但鄉下卻是處處空屋,屋屋獨居老人。但以這裡位置,開車到台中這都會區不過四十分,如此蕭條的景象十分可惜。這樣悠閒美好的環境,任其凋萎實屬可惜!

站在沒落風華的一角 窺視重粉胭脂的她 鹿谷故事館背包客棧 lugustoryhouse backpacker hostel

    有一天這裡的老人會逐漸凋零,老人仙逝了,一個世代的記憶也隨著風消雲散了!老人仙逝了,老屋也難保了!老屋重建了,與上一代連結的回憶也瓦解了!不管身屬哪一世代的人,回到家鄉,需要使勁回想甚至找不到孩提時提那美好回憶的連結,或許是現代不少來自鄉下大孩子難以承受之憂傷!

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本篇文章照片為張億收老師提供

在黑夜的山林中,點點亮光搖曳飛舞。彷如一場瑩光秀,此起彼落的閃光,是螢火蟲們使出渾身解術吸引異性的展現。每年三月底起,是鹿谷一年一度的賞螢盛會。由於生態保育的完善及復育成功,才讓鹿谷這片土地重新成為螢火蟲開party,延續下一代的螢火聚會。

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鹿谷其中一著名的賞螢地點­-三生緣區,因其為數眾多的盛況,成為每年鄉公所賞螢導覽的必選之地。而三生緣區跟故事館有些關聯,因一個星期六恰逢第一任屋主家人來訪的意外發現,故事館最早期是一間布店,來訪的人是屋主的兒子,年紀約莫半百,由母親引領下環顧故事館的內外,他繪聲繪影的述說著屋子裡的每個角落過往的樣貌,如小時他最愛在父親放衣服的長條桌子上翻滾嬉戲著,也如數家珍的說著故事館周遭在其孩提時期的樣貌,如故事館斜對面的空地是原本一間旅社,十崁街有五金行、雜貨店、藝品店等,廣興還有戲院,每當上演時總是人聲鼎沸,觀眾會隨著劇情的變化而情緒起伏,甚至因同情戲中角色,而往台上丟零錢或糖果,隨著他的娓娓道來彷如有了一趟五零年代時光之旅,相較現今的冷清,不勝唏噓!

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在言談的尾聲,才得知原來三生緣區是一片私人田園,地主提供給公家單位為復育而推廣保育及導覽之用,而這個地主恰恰是今天來訪的先生夫婦,真是有意思的巧合。

以下為鹿谷數個賞螢的勝地:

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  • 內湖村三生緣區  
  • 廣興村財仔溪岸(從故事館步行十分鐘。) 
  • 麒麟潭 賞螢步道  
  • 二突路(從故事館步行十分鐘)      
  • 鹿谷鳳凰谷山區(N23° 43' 50.13"E120° 47' 23.85"

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檢視較大的地圖

南投鹿谷鄉三生緣區位置︰

 

◆交通指引︰

國道3號→竹山交流道下→右轉接台三線往鹿谷/溪頭方向→接【台151甲】→接【台151號】道路往溪頭方向→約台151號線道【10.9km】處,左方有一條上行的斜坡小路,循小路前進約500公尺,即可到達三生緣區賞螢熱點


檢視較大的地圖

廣興村財仔溪


檢視較大的地圖

麒麟潭 賞螢步道

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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